Surfing Experience & Lifestyle

Surfing Experience & Lifestyle

Surfing Experience and Lifestyle

Surfing is not just a sport, but also a way of life, with a wordless philosophy communicated effortlessly through photographs that inspire many people who have never even touched a surfboard.

Surfers live with the ocean, rising and falling with its waves. Their naturally photogenic lives are enriched not only by the healthy exercise of life at the beach, but also by the intercultural experiences that come with traveling around the world to find the best breaks.

In my early twenties, while working as an assistant chef, I began to look for ways to bring the surfing lifestyle into my work. Surfing was my favorite activity; that was what I did before and after work, and on my days off.

So I asked myself: Could I find work at the beach, or in the surf, and get paid for being in my chosen element?

Sadly, I was not good enough at surfing to be a professional surfer, but I had developed a personal philosophy of doing what I love, and loving what I do – and surfing was clearly what I loved to do.

I asked around at the five-star hotel where I’d been working, and sure enough, I was able to transfer to a new position at the same hotel, working with the beach and pool department as a lifeguard. From that day forward, my life changed.

I was getting paid to train as a lifeguard and swim on the beach every day, and encouraged to have fun surfing on my breaks.

Do what you love, and love what you do. Great advice!

Steven 'Surf Doctor' Martin experiencing the surfing lifestyle at the Kahalu'u beach house in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

Lifeguarding and Water Safety

After working on the beach and making ocean rescues for about three years, I applied for a full-time job as a Hawaii County Lifeguard. In 1992, I was offered an opportunity to attend lifeguard training at Huntington Beach, California, and soon become a certified California State Lifeguard, stationed at San Clemente, Orange Coast District.

Once I started college in 1994 and learned that I could study abroad in wave-rich countries like South Africa, Spain, and Taiwan, the idea of combining work, study and other life pursuits with surfing opened up a world of possibilities.

In 1998, after good day of surfing in Tel-Aviv, Israel, I made the decision to return home to Hawaii and start a surfing school. Based on my experience in lifeguarding, I named the school "Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors" (HLSI), and set up shop at a beach house near Kahaluu Beach Park in Kailua-Kona (see photos below).

Water Safety and Lifeguarding in Hawaii

Kahalu'u Beach Park in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors | Surf Lessons Hawaii

Over the next 5 years, I earned a living teaching others how to surf, and met a variety of interesting people, including international celebrities, movie stars and astronauts from NASA.

The surf school was an instant success. Everyone wanted a piece of the action. Before long every major hotel in the area was calling me to book lessons for their guests, and I had contacts up and down the coast. My friends and I had people of all shapes and sizes, backgrounds and abilities.

Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors (HLSI) beach house at Kahaluu Beach Park in Kailua-Kona, Big Island of Hawaii

Most kids wanted to surf when they came to Hawaii, and most parents didn’t really know much about surfing and were terribly worried at the idea of it. So HLSI was there to provide a short, safe, surfing experience, and everyone got what they wanted.

"Big Monday" at the beach house | Kahaluu Beach Park, Kailua-Kona, Big Island

Before long the school started to attract celebrities. Bobby Brown and Whitney Houston were at the house, Steven Seagal's kids with his ex-wife, actress Kelly LeBrock, Jeff Bridges with his three daughters. We treated the stars like family, barbecuing on the beach or taking them to local restaurants to eat after the day’s surfing. They loved it, and so did we.

'High Surf Advisory' at the Kahaluu beach house

The Space Ambassadors | Surfing with NASA Astronauts  

Surf Lessons Hawaii | Commander Scott Horowitz (lower right) and Mission Specialist Pat Forrester (lower center) and the STS-105 Crew

One morning after a volunteer project at Kahaluu Beach Park in Kona, Hawaii, I met Scott Horowitz, four-time commander of the Space Shuttle.

Scott had just a few minutes to learn to surf, and so I geared him up, and we hit the water. Scott was a surf instructor's dream, naturally enough. As an astronaut, he had been selected for both physical strength and learning ability – so he was very close to the perfect student.

With Astronaut Scott Horowitz | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

After his first wave, Scott exclaimed, "Surfing is out of this world!"

One thing led to another and over the next year I found myself imagining the entire shuttle crew to coming to the Big Island of Hawaii to surf and appear at local schools.

The next year Scott and fellow astronaut Pat Forrester came to Hawaii, officially representing the NASA Space Program, and appearing at schools across the island and catching a few waves.

I wrote a short article named, "The Space Ambassadors" to share the experience in the Kona Views Magazine.

NASA Astronaut Hawaii Appearances 2001 Press Release | West Hawaii

NASA Astronaut Appearance Video | Shown to Big Island students during the Hawaii tour

Astronaut Scott Horowitz | Big Island of Hawaii students

Scott Horowitz | Big Island students in Kailua-Kona

Mission Specialist Pat Forrester | Hawaii Preparatory Academy (HPA)

Astronaut Scott Horowitz | Learning to surf in Kailua-Kona

Surf Resource Sustainability and Conservation

When it was time to start Graduate school and do my PhD, once again I found that surfing was my ticket to combining work, education and lifestyle. I wrote my MBA thesis on surf tourism in Thailand.

The more I traveled, surfed, and learned about the environmental issues at surf sites and other coastal areas, the more I was moved to study the social, economic and environmental significance of surfing.

After my MBA, I chose to do a Ph.D. in Environmental Management, dedicating three years of my life to researching surf site sustainability and developing the Surf Resource Sustainability Index (SRSI).

Currently, I am still surfing and sharing the surfing stoke with my students in Environmental Studies at Prince of Songkla University, Phuket, Thailand.

Steven's 'surfer-researcher lifestyle' was featured in Japan's Nalu Magazine | 2008 article by Riku Emoto | Click to view...

International Research Publications

Visit my Surf Tourism Research page for a complete list of publications on surf site sustainability and conservation, including international peer-reviewed journal papers, book chapters, and popular magazine articles. Select highlights and links below:

Conducting research on "Surf Resource System Boundaries"

I hope you enjoy my photos and the information in the links provided.

If you feel motivated to learn more about these or other surfing experiences, or would like to arrange for me to give a public talk, please let me know – I’d love to hear from you.

–Steven 'Surf Doctor' Martin

Lifeguarding & Ocean Safety

Lifeguarding & Ocean Safety

LIFEGUARDING, OCEAN SAFETY, AND TEACHING WITH THE AMERICAN RED CROSS

Backstory

At 15 years old, arriving in Hawaii for the first time, I was captivated by the Pacific – and the ocean became my life-long teacher. The surfing lifestyle led me to health, nature, and freedom.

Surfing was what I loved to do, and over time I found myself increasingly "Doing what I love, and loving what I do."

At Waikiki with Lifeguards Hawaii State

My surfing lifestyle led me to train and become qualified as an ocean lifeguard/Water Safety Officer. Later I traveled the world as a surfer, and eventually settled down at a university on a tropical island (Phuket, Thailand), earned a PhD in surf site conservation, and became a professional environmental researcher.

Through my experiences as a water safety professional, I learned important first-responder skills, such as First Aid and CPR. Later, I became an American Red Cross instructor.

Practical Experience and Professional Service

The sport of surfing has inherent risks, and practical experience and an understanding of ocean safety go hand and hand. It is common for surfers seek advanced water safety or lifeguard training, especially if they are thinking of working at the beach. My case was no exception, and now I reflect on forty years of ocean experience in twenty-five countries, including five years' service as a Hawaii County Water Safety Officer, and seasonal service as a California State Park Lifeguard. Although lifeguarding was not my only career, it has been a continuous theme in personal and professional life.

In 1987, I was introduced to instructor programs with American Red Cross through a Hawaiian friend at the beach, and this was when I first became a teacher. I continued teaching these courses until 1997. Mainly I taught courses in Advanced Lifesaving, Lifeguarding, First-aid, and CPR.

Phuket Rip Currents Poster | Steven Martin

Surf experience highlights in my life include participating in amateur surf contests and as an official surf contest judge in Hawaii, North America, South America, Africa, Europe and Asia. These and other experiences culminated in the idea to create an international surfing school in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii, in 1998.

I have saved over 100 lives in ocean rescues, the majority of them being off duty, while surfing or teaching surfing.

Lifeguarding at Kahaluu and White Sands (Magic Sands) Beach Parks in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | 1985-1991

The 1980s in Hawaii was a formative period in the development of public water safety services. Many popular beaches on the Big Island of Hawaii, such as White Sands (Magic Sands) Beach in Kailua-Kona, did not have lifeguard stations or towers. The traditional Hawaiian name for the site is La'a Loa.

The photos shared here are from my Surfing Scrapbook.

Lifeguarding White Sands Beach (La'a Loa) | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | 1989

Lifeguarding White Sands Beach (La'a Loa) | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | 1990

White Sands Point (La'a Loa) | Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | 2000 | Click to "A Brief History of Surfing"

Kahaluu Beach Park | County of Hawaii

Kuemanu Heiau (surfing shrine) | Kahaluu Beach Park, Big Island of Hawaii | Click enlarge

Students learning to surf at the Kuemanu Heiau surfing shrine at Kahaluu Beach Park

Lifeguarding at Hapuna Beach State Park in South Kohala, Hawaii, with Lifeguards Hawaii State

Hapuna State Beach has a long history of drowning and near-drowning incidents. During the 1970s and 80s, while Hawaii County provided lifeguard services at County beach parks, State beach parks were left unguarded.

Hapuna State Beach was particularly dangerous due to the deep water and north-west exposure, making the beach wide open to large and powerful north-west ocean swells during the winter months.

In 1990, the State opened a contract for private lifeguarding organizations to provide water safety services at Hapuna for the first time. Honolulu-based Lifeguards Hawaii State, owned and operated by John Quincy Adams (aka, JQA), took charge of the lifeguard program for first three years.

Hawaii County lifeguard tower at Hapuna Beach State Park

Following the precedent set in January 1992, when the City and County of Honolulu was elected to place lifeguards at the notoriously dangerous Keawaula Beach on Oahu, an agreement was soon reached on the Big Island between Hawaii County and the State of Hawaii, leading to County lifeguards being stationed at Hapuna State Beach.

I was fortunate enough to be active during this formative period in the Big Island's water safety programs, having worked for the County, as well as Lifeguards Hawaii State.

Winter 1992 | Lifeguarding at Hapuna Beach State Park | Lifeguards Hawaii State

The first lifeguard tower at Hapuna Beach State Park in South Kohala, Hawaii | Lifeguards Hawaii State

California State Park Lifeguarding in San Clemente, Orange Coast State District

Just prior to County guards being officially stationed at Hapuna, I was accepted to the California State Park Lifeguard Training Program at Huntington Beach. Luckily, I survived the rigorous training and testing period at Huntington and got hired as a California State Park Lifeguard in San Clemente, Orange Coast District – a great place to be a surfer-lifeguard!

San Clemente was home to the surf beaks known collectively as "Trestles" at San Onofre State Beach, and being from out of state, I was allowed to camp and use the facilities at Trestles Headquarters (THQ) overlooking the breaks during the summer of 1992.

Surfing and Ocean Safety in Phuket, Thailand

After moving to the resort island of Phuket, Thailand, in 2007, to study for my MBA in Hospitality and Tourism Management, I became interested in ocean safety at local beaches.

During my first week on the island, I made several surf-related rescues at unguarded beaches. That year, during the Southwest Monsoon (May to October), I rescued five tourists in the surf, and decided to conduct water safety research on the island. My study found that surfers were unintentionally acting as surrogate lifeguards at Phuket beaches, assisting tourists and the general public who got into trouble in the surf.

I wrote several articles for a local magazine on related subjects, created the Phuket Ocean Safety Guide, and in April of 2010, the research made the front page of the Phuket Gazette. I also discussed this issue in my Master's (MBA) thesis, "Coastal resource assessment for surf tourism in Thailand," and on local radio.

Water Safety and Lifeguarding Experience

1991-2019 Lifeguards Hawaii State

  • Water Safety Consultant

1998-2003 Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors (HLSI)

  • Surfing and Ocean Safety Instructor

1987-1997 American Red Cross, Hawaii Island Chapter

  • Instructor in Lifeguarding, Swimming, First Aid and CPR
  • Water Safety Instructor (WSI)

1991-1992 California State Park Lifeguard

  • State Lifeguard – California Department of Parks and Recreation

1985-1991 County of Hawaii

  • Water Safety Officer (WSO II)

1992-1993 Boy Scouts of America

  • Boy Scout Merit Badge Instructor in First Aid and CPR

1988-1990 Ocean Sports Waikoloa

  • First Aid and CPR Instructor

1987-1997 Red Cross Swimming and Water Safety Instructor

  • Swimming, Water Safety and Lifeguard Instructor
  • First Aid and CPR Instructor

1988-1992 Parker High School, Hawaii

  • Swimming Coach, Water Safety and Lifeguard Instructor
  • First Aid and CPR Instructor

Letters of Recommendation | Water Safety

Thank you for visiting my Lifeguarding and Ocean Safety Page.

I hope you enjoy the photos and the information in the links provided. If you feel motivated to learn more about ocean safety, lifeguarding or surf tourism, please let me know – I’d love to hear from you.

–Steven Martin

Surfer’s Journal

Surfer’s Journal

Surfing changed my life

Surfing connected me to a healthy lifestyle, nature, and freedom.

At 15 years old, arriving in Hawaii for the first time, the Pacific captured my imagination – and the ocean became my life-long teacher.

The photos shared on this page are my scrapbook. I hope that anyone who surfs to this page will enjoy them.

Steven 'Surf Doctor' Martin

Surfing in Hawaii with my friends in the 1980s (I'm second from left)

1980s

I got my first surfboard in 1979, a 5' 6" kneeboard, far too small to float me or paddle on – but I didn’t know any better.

That first year I took a beating on the reef, healing my wounds on the shore. In surfer slang – I got slammed, took my beatings, and learned my lessons the hard way. What didn’t kill me made me stronger.

1980 at "Old Airports" in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | My first fiberglass surfboard

Surf Beach Lifeguarding | White Sands Beach (Magic Sands) Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

Lifeguarding at Magic Sands Beach in Kona in 1989 for the County of Hawaii

Surfing Magic Sands Point, Kona, Hawaii, in 1991, during lunch beak

A good day at Magic Sands Point (La'a Loa) | c.1990 | Click to enlarge

Surfing with NASA Astronauts | The Space Ambassadors

One morning after a volunteer project at Kahaluu Beach Park in Kona, Hawaii, a couple approached me to ask if I collected patches, offering me a small patch with an image of the space shuttle on it.

It was none other than Scott Horowitz, four-time commander of the Space Shuttle, and his wife, Lisa.

Scott had just a few minutes to learn to surf, and so I geared him up, and we hit the water. Scott was a surf instructor's dream, naturally enough. As an astronaut, he had been selected for both physical strength and learning ability – so he was very close to the perfect student.

Commander Scott Horowitz (lower right) and Mission Specialist Pat Forrester (lower center) and the STS-105 Crew

I saw a wave coming, just the right size and shape, and we got Scott turned toward the beach, in position on the board, and with a well-timed push coordinated with the wave, he was launched like a rocket. He found his balance, stood up, and was surfing on the first try. Beyond expectation, he turned on his own and traveled along the open face of the wave. It was the best I ever saw a student do on the first wave.

After his first wave, Scott exclaimed, "Surfing is out of this world!"

One thing led to another and over the next year I found myself imagining the entire shuttle crew to coming to the Big Island of Hawaii to surf and appear at local schools.

The next year Scott and fellow astronaut Pat Forrester came to Hawaii, officially representing the NASA Space Program, and appearing at schools across the island and catching a few waves.

I wrote a short article named, "The Space Ambassadors" to share the experience in the Kona Views Magazine.

With Astronaut Scott Horowitz in Kona, Hawaii

With Astronaut Scott Horowitz in Kona, Hawaii

Astronaut Scott Horowitz with his wife Lisa after surfing in Kona, Hawaii

International Surfing Scrapbook

Surfing Hawaii

I was young and enthusiastic about surfing and travel, so toting heavy camera gear, such as the telephoto lenses needed for surf photography, wasn't an option. These days were long before digital photography and the advent of the selfie.

I don't have many photos of the waves or photos of myself surfing in the early years of my international surfing, so I am thankful to have a few to share here on this page.

These are mainly amateur scrapbook pics, taken by friends made along the way, and recently dug out of an old shoebox and scanned.

Surfing Lyman's Point in Kona, Hawaii, in the 1980s with "Cab" (far left) and me, second from left

c.1989 | Kohala Lighthouse, Big Island of Hawaii

1991 | Lyman's Point, Kailua-Kona, Big Island of Hawaii

Summer 1992 | South swells at Lyman's Point, Kailua-Kona, Big Island | Photo by Jeff Middleton

Winter 1992 | Inaugural Tiger Espere Longboard Competition, Kawaihae, Hawaii

Summer 1993 | Magic Sands Point, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii | Photo by Jeff Middleton

Winter of 1996 at the Kahaluu beach house, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii, before leaving to study abroad in South Africa

2002 | Surfing "House Rights" at the beach house, Kahaluu, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

Surfing Southern & Eastern Australia

1992 | Bells Beach, Australia

1992 | Angourie, Australia

Surfing Western Australia

1994 | Red Bluff, Western Australia

1994 | Perfect overhead waves at Red Bluff, Western Australia

Surfing Spain

1993 | Ubiri point break, Spain | Bay of Biscay

1993 | Ubiri point break, Spain | Karramarro (Crab) in Basque

Surfing Portugal

1998 | Lisbon, Portugal, while studying abroad | Click to Spain page...

1998 | Algarve, Portugal, while studying abroad | Click to Spain page...

Surfing France

1993 | Biarritz, France, with the Italian surf club, the "Hurricanes"

1993 | Nearly drowning in the rip-current while bodysurfing during high tide at Grande Plage, Biarritz, France!

1993 | Sunrise at low tide | Grande Plage, Biarritz, France

Surfing Brazil

1996 | Pascual, from Rio de Janeiro, showing me the waves at 'Prainha', Brazil

1996 | Ipanema Beach, Rio de Janeiro

1996 | Saquarema, near Rio de Janeiro

Surfing Uruguay

1996 | Surfing near Punta del Este, Uruguay

Surfing South Africa

1997 | Jeffreys Bay, South Africa

1997 | Jeffreys Bay, South Africa, with Hawaii Lifeguard JQA

Surfing Taiwan

June 20, 2004 | Typhoon Dianmu | Bashendong, Taiwan | Click to enlarge...

September 17, 2006 | Typhoon Shan Shan | Fulong Beach, Taiwan

2004 | Chenggong, on Taiwan's east coast

Surfing Thailand

2008 | Having fun at Kata Noi Beach, Phuket, Thailand

2008 | Kata Beach Surf Club, Phuket, Thailand

2008 | Phuket Surfing Contest, Kalim Beach, Thailand

2007 | Kamala Surfing Contest, Phuket

2008 | Phuket Surfing Contest (free surf), Kalim Beach, Thailand

A sunny day in Phuket | November 2007

2008 | Paddling out in the Andaman Sea at Karon Beach, Phuket, Thailand

Phuket surfing fun | Wave police

2008 | Japan's Nalu Magazine featuring Steven's university surf site conservation research | Click to view this Japanese article

Surfing Malaysia

2009 | First Place (Men's Longboard) Monsoon Mayhem Surfing Contest | Desaru Beach, Malaysia

2009 | 1st Place (Longboard) | Monsoon Mayhem Surfing Contest, Desaru, Malaysia

2009 | Monsoon Mayhem Surfing Contest | Desaru Beach, Malaysia

Surfing, skating, and sandboarding fun in China

1997 | Surfing small waves on an island near Shanghai, China

1995 | Skateboarding on the Great Wall of China at Badaling 八达岭 万里长城

1995 | Air time on the Great Wall 八达岭 万里长城

2001 | Sandboarding at Dunhuang, China

1997 | Surfing on a rice paddy in southern China

Thank you for visiting my Surfer's Journal Page.

I hope you enjoy the photos and information in the links provided. If you feel motivated to learn more about international surfing or surf tourism, please let me know – I’d love to hear from you.

–Steven 'Surf Doctor' Martin